Kanchanaburi
With verdant jungle-clad hills, meandering rivers, and cascading waterfalls, there is so much that is beautiful about Kanchanaburi. But it’s also a location that has a tragic history. Inextricably linked with the Second World War, Kanchanaburi is the site of one of the most notorious stretches of the Thailand-Burma railway, better known today as the ‘Death Railway’. Although the main wartime sites of Kanchanaburi can be visited as a day trip from Bangkok or Hua Hin, it’s worth spending at least a few nights here to enjoy the natural attractions of this scenic area of Thailand.
Highlights of Kanchanaburi
Visiting the war cemeteries and Hellfire Pass offers a sobering and emotional experience. Even if history isn’t your primary interest, these sites should be on every visitor’s itinerary. During World War II, the Japanese army occupied Thailand and forced tens of thousands of Allied prisoners of war (POWs) and Asian civilians to construct the Thailand-Burma railway under horrific conditions. More than 90,000 Asian labourers and at least 12,000 POWs lost their lives during the construction.
Kanchanaburi War Cemetery
Located in the centre of town near the main train station, the impeccably maintained Kanchanaburi War Cemetery (Don Rak) is a poignant reminder of the young lives lost. Walking through the grounds, reading the simple headstones that mark the names and regiments of the fallen, is a deeply moving experience.
Wartime museums
Adjacent to the cemetery, the Death Railway Museum and Research Centre provides detailed insights into the construction of the railway and the brutal conditions endured by those who worked on it. At the other end of town, the JEATH museum features a reconstructed POW hut.
A bit further from central Kanchanaburi, the Hellfire Pass museum and walking trail are must-see attractions. Considered one of the best museums in Asia, the Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum is thoughtfully designed, and walking through the steep railway cuttings evokes powerful imagery of the hardships faced by the POWs and labourers. Audio guides are available at the museum and online. Hellfire Pass is not easily accessible by public transport, so it’s more convenient to visit as part of a tour. Some tours also include a visit to the Chungkai War Cemetery. For a more personal experience, the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre offers customised railway pilgrimages.
Bridge on the River Kwai
While the 1950s film The Bridge on the River Kwai is a classic, it is only loosely based on real events and characters. The film was primarily shot in Sri Lanka, and at the time, there was no River Kwai in Kanchanaburi. The metal bridge seen today crosses the Mae Khlong River, which was officially renamed Khwae Yai in the 1960s. Despite the historical inaccuracies, the spelling and pronunciation ‘Kwai’ remain commonly used by non-Thais.
Death Railway
Although much of the Death Railway has been reclaimed by the jungle, some sections of the original route are still in use, including the remarkable trestle bridge at Wang Po Viaduct. This elevated stretch of track hugs cliffs on one side and overlooks the Khwae Noi River on the other. Passengers on the train can enjoy breathtaking views, though it’s chilling to consider the conditions endured by the men who built the railway. Most organised tours include a train ride over the bridge and the Wang Po Viaduct, with a stop at Tham Krasae station for lunch and an opportunity to walk along the tracks and visit the hillside cave. Tours typically continue by minivan to Hellfire Pass and can be arranged through travel agents in Bangkok or Kanchanaburi.
Prasat Mueang Singh
For those interested in history, the ruins of Prasat Mueang Singh are worth visiting. Dating back to the 13th century, this site was once a satellite town of the Angkor Empire. While the ruins may not be as impressive as those in Ayutthaya or Sukhothai, they are still worth exploring if you have time.
Natural attractions
Beyond its historical sites, Kanchanaburi is also known for its natural attractions, including rivers, caves, lakes, and waterfalls. Erawan National Park and its multi-tiered Erawan Waterfall are particularly popular and striking. Additionally, the scenic temple of Wat Tham Seua is well worth a visit.
Kanchanaburi accommodation
Kanchanaburi offers a range of accommodations, from budget-friendly guesthouses in the town centre to more comfortable options along the quieter stretches of the river. For a unique experience, consider staying at the River Kwai Jungle Rafts, which offers basic yet comfortable floating accommodations surrounded by stunning jungle scenery. For more modern amenities, the Float House River Kwai is another excellent option.
Suggested hotels include:
- Cross River Kwai
- Dheva Mantra Resort & Spa
- Float House River Kwai
- Hintok River Camp
- River Kwai Jungle Rafts
Kanchanaburi travel
Kanchanaburi is accessible from Bangkok by road or rail. If you prefer the latter, you can take a leisurely three-hour train journey from Bangkok Noi (Thonburi) station to Kanchanaburi. For those short on time or seeking more comfort, consider joining a group tour or hiring a private vehicle for the trip.